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Mortgage Refinance Calculator

Determine if refinancing makes financial sense for you. Calculate your break-even point, monthly savings, and lifetime interest savings with our comprehensive refinance analysis.

Loan Details

Current Mortgage

$
%

25 years, 0 months

New Mortgage

%
$

Typically 2-5% of loan amount ($$6,000 - $$15,000)

$

Extra cash you want to take out from home equity

Analysis Results

Refinancing Recommended

You'll break even in 1.3 years and save $322/month.

Monthly Payment

Current

$2,026

New

$1,703

Save: $322/month

Interest Rate

Current

6.50%

New

5.50%

Decrease: 1.00%

Break-Even Point

16 months

(1.3 years)

Upfront Cost

$5,000

Due at closing

First Year Savings

-$1,133

After closing costs

Lifetime Interest Savings

-$10,526

If you stay for full 30-year term

Loan Details

New Loan Amount:$300,000
Current Total Interest:$307,686
New Total Interest:$313,212

⚠️ Important Considerations

When Refinancing Makes Sense

  • ✓ Rate reduction of 0.75% or more
  • ✓ Planning to stay 5+ years (or past break-even)
  • ✓ Can afford closing costs
  • ✓ Credit score has improved significantly
  • ✓ Need to access home equity for improvements

Warning Signs

  • ⚠️ Breaking even takes more than 5 years
  • ⚠️ Planning to sell or move soon
  • ⚠️ Extending loan term significantly
  • ⚠️ Cash-out reduces equity below 20%
  • ⚠️ Cannot afford upfront costs

Refinancing Tips

📋 Preparation

  • • Check credit score (aim for 760+)
  • • Gather financial documents
  • • Get home appraised if needed
  • • Review current mortgage terms

💰 Cost Reduction

  • • Shop multiple lenders (3-5 quotes)
  • • Negotiate closing costs
  • • Consider no-closing-cost options
  • • Ask about lender credits

⏰ Timing

  • • Lock rate when satisfied
  • • Allow 30-45 days for closing
  • • Avoid month-end closings
  • • Consider rate trends

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Should You Refinance? The Break-Even Math

A refinance is a bet that upfront costs today will be repaid by lower payments tomorrow. The decision comes down to one number most rate advertisements never mention: the break-even point— the month when your accumulated monthly savings finally exceed what you paid in closing costs. Refinance closing costs typically run 2-6% of the loan amount, covering origination fees, appraisal, title work, and recording. Until you cross break-even, the "cheaper" loan has cost you money.

This calculator goes a step further than payment comparison. It shows the effect of rolling closing costs into the loan, models cash-out amounts, and — critically — compares total interest over the life of each loan, which exposes the hidden cost of resetting a partially paid mortgage back to a full 30-year term.

What the Numbers Mean

  • Monthly savings — your current payment minus the new one. Positive savings are necessary but not sufficient; a longer term can produce "savings" that are really deferred principal.
  • Break-even point — upfront closing costs divided by monthly savings. Compare it honestly against how long you expect to keep the loan, not the house — a future move or another refinance both end the clock.
  • Lifetime savings — total remaining payments on the old loan versus all payments on the new loan plus upfront costs. This is where a term reset shows its true price.
  • First-year savings — a quick gut check: negative first-year savings with a long break-even is a sign you are paying for a rate you may never fully use.

A Worked Example

Suppose you owe $300,000 at 6.5% with 25 years (300 payments) remaining — a payment of about $2,026 per month. Refinancing into a 30-year loan at 5.5% with $5,000 in closing costs paid upfront drops the payment to roughly $1,703. That is $323 in monthly savings and a break-even of about 16 months. But note the fine print: you traded 25 remaining years for 30, so while cash flow improves immediately, total interest paid only comes out ahead because the rate cut is a full point. At a quarter-point cut, the same term reset would leave you paying more over the life of the loan despite a lower payment — exactly the trap the lifetime-savings figure is designed to catch.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is refinancing a mortgage worth it?

The classic threshold is a rate drop of at least 0.75-1 percentage point, but the better test is the break-even point: divide your closing costs by your monthly savings. If closing costs are $5,000 and you save $320 per month, you break even in about 16 months — worthwhile if you plan to stay in the home well past that. If you expect to sell or refinance again before the break-even month, the refinance loses money regardless of how attractive the new rate looks.

Why can a lower monthly payment still cost more overall?

Because refinancing usually resets the clock. Swapping a loan with 25 years remaining for a fresh 30-year term means five extra years of interest, and much of what looks like savings is really just a stretched-out payoff. To compare fairly, look at total interest over the life of each loan, or refinance into a term that matches your remaining years — for example, a 25-year-old loan into a 20-year refinance.

Should I roll closing costs into the new loan?

Rolling $5,000 of closing costs into the loan means no cash out of pocket and an immediate break-even, but you pay interest on that $5,000 for the full term — at 5.5% over 30 years, roughly $5,200 in added interest on top of the fees themselves. Paying costs upfront is cheaper if you have the cash and will stay in the home long-term; rolling them in makes sense mainly when you are short on cash or fairly likely to move within several years.

Is a cash-out refinance a good way to pay for renovations?

It can be, if the math holds. Cash-out refinancing typically prices 0.125-0.25 points above a standard refinance and increases your loan balance, so the borrowed money should go toward something durable — a renovation that adds value, or retiring higher-interest debt — rather than consumption. Compare it against a HELOC or home equity loan: if your existing first-mortgage rate is already low, disturbing it just to extract cash is usually the more expensive path.