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Tree Removal Cost Calculator

Removing a medium-size tree costs about $900, with a range of $450 to $1,700, and grinding the stump adds about $250. Enter your trees by height, then describe the access and condition for an itemized estimate.

1. How many trees, by height

A two-story house is about 25 feet tall at the roof peak, which makes a useful yardstick.

2. The job

Your estimate

Typical total cost
$1,150
Range: $570 to $2,150
1 tree, about $1,150 each
Line itemTypical
Medium (30 to 60 ft) × 1Standing and healthy$900
Stump grinding × 1Ground below the surface, chips left on site$250

Planning estimate based on the assumptions listed below, not a quote. Calculated in your browser; we do not store what you enter.

The short answer

Tree removal is priced by the tree, and three things set the price of each one: how tall it is, what is underneath and around it, and what condition it is in. Height decides how much wood there is and whether the crew needs a bucket truck or a crane. The surroundings decide whether the tree can be dropped in one piece or has to be taken apart limb by limb and lowered on ropes. Condition matters because a dead or leaning tree is unpredictable and cannot always be climbed safely.

Published 2026 averages put a typical removal somewhere between $400 and $1,200, with large or difficult trees running well past $3,000. Those figures agree with each other more than they appear to. They describe different trees. The calculator above separates the factors so you can see which one a quote is charging for.

How the calculator works

  1. Base price per tree. Each height band has a low, typical, and high price for cutting down a healthy, standing tree in an open yard and hauling away the debris.
  2. Access and condition. The base price is multiplied by an access factor (open yard 1.0, close to a house or fence 1.2, over a structure or near power lines 1.5) and a condition factor (healthy 1.0, dead or leaning 1.2, already on the ground 0.6).
  3. Service options. Emergency service multiplies the tree price by 1.5. Leaving the wood on site takes 10% off. The local cost level multiplies by 0.9, 1.0, or 1.2.
  4. Stumps and permits. Stump grinding is added per stump, and a permit is a flat amount.

The formula is: total = sum of (trees × base price × access factor × condition factor × service factors × local factor) + stumps × stump price + permit.

Cost assumptions

Price to remove one healthy, standing tree with open access, debris hauled away, national baseline. These are planning ranges compiled from published 2026 tree service cost guides, not quotes.

Tree heightLowTypicalHigh
Small, under 30 ft$200$400$750
Medium, 30 to 60 ft$450$900$1,700
Large, 60 to 80 ft$900$1,700$3,000
Very large, over 80 ft$1,500$2,800$5,000
AdditionUnitLowTypicalHigh
Stump grindingPer stump$120$250$450
Tree removal permitFlat$50$150$400

Eight jobs, priced

National baseline, healthy standing trees unless noted.

JobLowTypicalHigh
One small tree, open yard$200$400$750
One medium tree, open yard, stump ground$570$1,150$2,150
One medium tree close to the house, stump ground$660$1,330$2,490
One large tree, open yard, stump ground$1,020$1,950$3,450
One large tree over a structure, stump ground$1,470$2,800$4,950
One very large tree close to the house, stump ground$1,920$3,610$6,450
Three medium trees, open yard, stumps ground$1,710$3,450$6,450
One medium tree close to the house, emergency service$810$1,620$3,060

A tree that has already fallen and is lying clear of any structure is the cheapest case. Cutting up and hauling a downed medium tree runs about $270 to $1,020.

What drives the price

  • Height and trunk diameter. Taller trees have more wood, need more rigging, and take longer. A thick trunk adds cutting time and disposal weight. Dense hardwoods such as oak cost more to handle than pine of the same height.
  • What the tree could hit. In an open yard a crew can fell a tree in one cut. Next to a roof, a fence, a pool, or a septic field, every section has to be roped and lowered. This is the largest single multiplier on most quotes.
  • Equipment access. A bucket truck or chipper that can reach the tree saves hours. A backyard tree behind a narrow gate means climbing and carrying everything out by hand.
  • Condition. Dead wood is brittle and may not hold a climber or a rigging line. Leaning, storm-damaged, and partly fallen trees are under tension and need slower, more careful work.
  • Multiple trunks. A tree that splits into several large stems near the ground is closer to two or three trees in labor.
  • Cleanup. Chipping the brush, hauling the logs, and raking the lawn are usually included, but not always. Keeping the wood for firewood, cut to length where it falls, lowers the price.
  • Timing. Emergency calls after a storm cost 50% to 100% more than scheduled work.

Stump grinding and stump removal

These are different services. Grinding uses a machine to chew the stump down to several inches below the surface. The roots stay in the ground and decay over the following years. It is quick, leaves a pile of wood chips, and is what most homeowners want. It is commonly priced at a few dollars per inch of stump diameter, with a minimum charge, which is why a single stump usually costs $120 to $450.

Full stump removal digs out the stump and the main roots. It leaves a large hole, costs considerably more, and is only necessary when you plan to build, pave, or replant in exactly the same spot. Ask whether the quote includes hauling away the chips and filling the hole with topsoil. Many do not. Each additional stump on the same visit usually costs less than the first.

Remove, or prune and keep?

A mature tree adds shade and curb appeal and takes decades to replace, so removal is worth a second look. A certified arborist can often tell you in one visit whether the tree can be kept.

Removal usually makes sense when:

  • The tree is dead, or more than about half of the crown is dead or dying.
  • The trunk is hollow, split, or has large cavities or fungus growing at the base.
  • The tree has started to lean, or the soil is lifting on one side of the roots.
  • Roots are damaging a foundation, a sewer line, or a driveway.
  • It is too close to the house for its mature size.

Pruning, cabling, or treatment may be enough when:

  • The problem is confined to a few dead or overhanging limbs.
  • A structurally weak fork can be supported with a cable or brace.
  • A pest or disease has been caught early and is treatable.

Permits, protected trees, and power lines

Many cities regulate tree removal on private property. Common triggers are a trunk diameter above a set size, a protected or heritage species, and trees in the public right of way next to the street. Some ordinances require replacement planting or a fee. Homeowner associations and historic districts can add their own rules. Call the planning or urban forestry office before you sign a contract, and ask the tree company who is responsible for pulling the permit.

Trees touching or growing close to overhead power lines are a special case. Do not attempt the work, and do not let an ordinary tree crew attempt it. Call the electric utility. Utilities often trim or remove trees that threaten their lines at no charge, and work near energized lines is restricted to specially qualified line-clearance crews. Before any stump is ground, call 811 to have buried utilities marked.

Who pays: insurance and neighbors

Homeowners insurance treats a tree as a cause of damage, not as something to maintain. If a tree falls on your house, garage, or fence because of wind, lightning, or the weight of ice and snow, a standard policy typically covers the repair and pays something toward removing the tree, often capped at $500 to $1,000. If a tree falls in the yard and hits nothing, most policies pay nothing, though some cover removal when the tree blocks a driveway or an accessibility ramp. Preventive removal of a risky tree is your own expense.

When a neighbor's tree falls on your property, your own insurer normally handles the claim. The neighbor is generally liable only if they knew, or should have known, that the tree was hazardous. If a neighboring tree worries you, put the concern in writing and keep a dated copy with photos. Our step-by-step guide to insurance claims explains what to document after a storm.

How to compare tree removal quotes

Prices for the same tree can differ by a factor of two, and the cheapest bid is often cheapest because the company carries no insurance. Get three written quotes and check that each one states:

  • Which trees, identified so there is no confusion on the day.
  • Whether the stump is ground, how deep, and what happens to the chips.
  • Whether all brush and logs are hauled away and the lawn is raked.
  • What equipment will come onto the lawn or driveway, and who repairs ruts or cracks.
  • Who obtains the permit, if one is required.
  • Proof of both liability insurance and workers compensation, sent to you directly by the insurer.

Ask whether an International Society of Arboriculture certified arborist is on staff. Be cautious about anyone who knocks on the door after a storm, asks for full payment in advance, or proposes to "top" a tree, which is a discredited practice that weakens it. For vetting companies in general, see our guide to finding the right contractors.

Timeline

Most single-tree removals take a crew two to six hours. A very large tree or one that needs a crane can take a full day or more. Scheduling is the longer wait: a few days to a few weeks in a normal season, and much longer after a regional storm. Permit review, where required, adds anywhere from a few days to several weeks.

Keep the paperwork

Keep the contract, the paid invoice, the company's certificate of insurance, any permit, and photos of the tree before and after. If an arborist wrote a report on the tree's condition, keep that too. These records settle questions with insurers, neighbors, and the city, and a buyer's inspector may ask why a large tree near the foundation was taken out. Routine tree removal is generally treated as maintenance for tax purposes, not as an improvement that adds to your home's basis. The home maintenance cost calculator helps you budget for it.

What the estimate leaves out

The calculator does not price crane rental as a separate line, full stump and root excavation, trimming or pruning of trees you are keeping, land or lot clearing priced by the acre, repair of lawns, driveways, fences, or irrigation lines, replacement planting, or arborist reports. It does not subtract anything an insurer or utility may pay. Treat the result as a range to test quotes against.

Cost assumptions last reviewed November 2026. See our calculator methodology.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to remove a tree?+

A medium tree, 30 to 60 feet tall, typically costs $450 to $1,700 to remove, with about $900 as a midpoint. Small trees under 30 feet run $200 to $750, large trees of 60 to 80 feet $900 to $3,000, and very large trees over 80 feet $1,500 to $5,000. Trees close to a house or over a structure cost 20% to 50% more.

Does tree removal include the stump?+

Usually not. A standard removal quote cuts the tree to a low stump and hauls the debris away. Stump grinding is a separate line, typically $120 to $450 per stump depending on its diameter and how easy it is to reach. Ask each company to price the stump separately so the quotes are comparable.

Why is tree removal so expensive?+

The price pays for a trained crew, specialized equipment such as bucket trucks, chippers, and sometimes a crane, disposal of several tons of wood, and insurance. Tree work is among the more dangerous trades, so liability and workers compensation coverage costs more than for most contractors. A tree that must be lowered in pieces over a roof takes several times as long as one that can be felled in an open yard.

Does homeowners insurance pay for tree removal?+

It typically pays when a tree falls on a covered structure, such as the house, a garage, or a fence, because of a covered event like wind or lightning. Coverage for the removal itself is usually capped, often at $500 to $1,000 per tree. Insurance generally does not pay to remove a healthy or dying tree as a precaution, or a tree that fell without hitting anything. Check your own policy for the limits.

Do I need a permit to cut down a tree on my property?+

It depends on the city or county. Many places require a permit to remove trees above a certain trunk diameter, trees of protected species, or any tree in the strip between the sidewalk and the street. Some homeowner associations have their own rules. Fines for removing a protected tree without approval can exceed the cost of the removal, so check before work begins.

What is the cheapest time of year to remove a tree?+

Late winter and early spring are usually the least expensive. Tree companies are less busy in the dormant season, bare branches are lighter and easier to handle, and frozen ground allows equipment into the yard with less damage. Prices are highest after major storms, when demand spikes and crews charge emergency rates.

Can I remove a tree myself?+

A small tree that you can cut from the ground, with nothing it could hit, is a reasonable job for someone experienced with a chainsaw and wearing protective gear. Anything that requires climbing, a ladder, or working near a building or power line should be left to an insured professional. Never work on a tree that is touching or close to power lines; call the utility.

Who pays when a neighbor's tree falls on my property?+

In most cases your own homeowners insurance pays for damage to your property, whoever owned the tree. The neighbor is generally responsible only if they were negligent, for example if they had been told the tree was dead or dangerous and did nothing. Rules vary by state, so document the tree's condition and any warnings you gave in writing.

Keep the yard on the record too

MyHomePlatform stores invoices, permits, arborist reports, and before-and-after photos in one digital home record, ready for an insurance claim, a dispute with a neighbor, or the day you sell.